By The Backseat View
Let’s Plan a trip to the Land of the Midnight Sun, where grizzlies roam, and the mountains are dazzling. The Alaska Road Trip Guide unlocks the magic of bears, icebergs, and orcas.
An Alaska vacation is the definition of Adventure. Southeastern Alaska can be visited by a cruise ship, but the rest of Alaska is a road trip.
Road-tripping through Alaska brings unparalleled views, mesmerizing wildlife interactions, and bucket-list memories.
If there was ever a trip worth taking, Alaska is it.
Alaska planning can be simplified by focusing on the five best road trip stops explored in the Alaska Travel Guide. As always, the pictures were taken with a mom’s phone.
Alaska Road Trip Travel Guide
Let’s depart in mid-July to visit the 5 Best Alaska Road Trip Stops.
- Seward has Kenai Fjords boat cruises for whales and icebergs.
- Cooper Landing for fishing on the Kenai River.
- Homer flies to Katmai National Park for bears at Brooks Falls.
- Denali bus tickets to explore the wilderness.
- Talkeetna because it resembles the Alaskan spirit.
Let’s Travel… 14 Day Road Trip
Day 1: Anchorage
After an 8-hour direct flight to Anchorage, we grabbed our SUV and headed to the Glacier Brew House for a delicious dinner. Then, we crashed at The Hotel Captain Cook, which has a restaurant at the top, Crow’s Nest, with fine dining and views. There are plenty of hotels in Anchorage, with the more expensive hotels having views of the water. Alaska restaurants and shops close early by 9 pm.
Day 2: Anchorage
We spent 10 hours traveling in cars and planes, so we are not going on a long drive today. Plus, I’m terrified of flight delays messing up bucket list parts of the itinerary. If you are pressed for time, travel forward to Seward.
Tony Knowles
We started the day on the 11-mile Tony Knowles Coastal Bike Trail to enjoy the peaceful water views. Alaska Pablo’s Bicycle Rentals is near the trail and helpful. Although it unexpectedly rained, we biked on, with rain gear to see the nation’s top rated coastal bike trail.
Being in Vacation Mode means going to Wild Scoops for ice cream. Their locally made, unique flavors are the perfect adventure ice cream. The afternoon included the 5th Street Mall, Walmart, and Bass Pro for snacks, OFF, and sunscreen. I loved flower-filled Anchorage and needed more time for the Anchorage Museum and Alaska Zoo.
Day 3: Seward
The car is filled with gas and snacks, so let’s travel on this beautiful 125-mile road (Route 1) to Seward. The Seward Highway is the event for the day, and it’s impossible to complete The Top 10 Stops on the Seward Highway. Six stops took eight hours.
Mileposts aren’t available, so driving past destinations is part of the game. The Seward Highway runs through the scenic Kenai Peninsula, Chugach National Forest, Turnagain Arm, and Kenai Mountains, meaning LOTS OF STOPS for photos, turquoise lakes, roadside bakeries, and hikes.
The Seward Highway is Alaska’s version of the road to Hanna in Hawaii.
Beluga Point
Beluga Point has panoramic views of Turnagain Arm, which is surrounded by mountains. There are several viewpoints where you can pull over and enjoy the trains running by. Turnagain Arm is a tidal bore phenomenon with 10ft waves occurring during tidal changes twice a day.
Wildlife Conservation
The Alaska Wildlife Conservation is a sanctuary that helps bears, bison, moose, reindeer, wolves, and elk heal. It is a magical 1.5-mile loop filled with wild creatures. It took almost two hours, longer if you pay for a bear or moose encounter.
Lake Area
Next is the lake area: Portage Lake, Summit Lake, Tern Lake, Trail Lakes, Kenai Lake, Lily Pad, and Bear Lake. We pulled over at Portage and Tern Lakes, which are beautiful lakes with mountain backdrops.
Moose Pass is a quirky town to stop in for fudge.
Exit Glacier
Everyone hikes to Exit Glacier on the 2.2-mile easy loop trail, Glacier View, at the Exit Glacier Nature Center. Beware, it’s been a long day, so this might get bumped to another day.
Seward
Snow-capped mountains and icy shore waters surround Seward, providing a scenic town with unparalleled views. It’s the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park, on every traveler’s bucket list. I loved Seward and could spend the summer here soaking in the peaceful views.
Lodging
We chose to stay outside Seward on Lowell Point. We booked an oceanfront home to walk on the beach with gorgeous water views surrounded by phenomenal wilderness. For a hotel in town, try Harbor 360 or the Gateway Hotel.
Restaurants
We ate delicious seafood at Ray’s Waterfront and Chinooks Waterfront Restaurant.
Day 4: Seward
The main reason to visit Seward is Kenai Fjords National Park. Book the 8.5-hour boat tour with WHALES, seals, Sea Lions, Glaciers, and sea otters.
Kenai Fjords
It’s the Alaska you dreamed of, and my second favorite day of our trip.
Watching the majestic killer whales is awe-inspiring and humbling.
There are no words to capture the experience of watching baby killer whales.
“The Sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.” Jacques Cousteau
It’s cold on the upper deck, so bring a thick waterproof coat, seasickness medicine, and binoculars. Arrive early to get a better seat on the boat.
Day 5: Seward
We spent another night in Seward in case the weather cancels the boat cruise. If you are pressed for time, travel on.
Sled Dogs
We visited Seavey’s IdidaRide Sled Dog Tours and loved it.
The trainer said, “Hush,” 59 dogs became silent, sat at attention, and walked without leashes. Okay, I’m impressed. I can’t manage my two boys and two dogs this well. A visit with sled dog puppies and a sled ride through the forest was a huge hit. We had reservations for the 1.5-hour Wilderness Dog Sled Tour and the Puppy Adventure add-on. I would love to book the helicopter tour to a glacier and the racing kennels.
Alaska SeaLife Center
After exploring the adorable town of Seward and the boat harbor, we visited the Alaska SeaLife Center. The aquarium has several touch tanks and a variety of animals. After two hours, we left happy and more educated on marine animal rehabilitation.
Lowell Point Hike
Lowell Point is surrounded by Resurrection Bay, filled with old forest growth hikes and a beach area, so we loved our time there. We hiked the 3.4-mile roundtrip Tonsina Creek Trail to watch the salmon swim upstream.
I could relax gazing at Resurrection Bay the entire summer. As perfect as Seward is, this Alaska Road Trip must move on.
Days 6 & 7: Cooper Landing
We drove the hour to Cooper Landing and booked the afternoon boat to fish. The water is the bluest you will ever see, filled with salmon and rainbow trout. Around a million Sockeye or “Red” Salmon make a run up the river from July 15 to August 10th, resulting in a fisherman’s paradise.
Even if you don’t fish, this is wild Alaska and worth a stop for the adventure of floating the Kenai River on your way to Homer. If you need to shorten the trip, this is where you cut two days.
Cooper Landing
Fishing at Cooper Landing on Kenai River was a bucket list check for the guys. On Day 7, they fished all day and hooked a 40-lb King Salmon. The boats are small drift boats, so two people are the usual charter. The Kenai River is a fly fishing heaven. Since I don’t fly fish, Taylor and I went on a Kenai River float and saw a black bear and eagles fishing the river.
Magic is found in time spent on the river in the still of Alaska.
Alaska Rivers Company was top-notch in floating, fishing, and log cabin rentals. Do you get more Alaskan than a cabin in the woods playing on a swing? Gwin’s Lodge cooked our fish for a delicious dinner.
Day 8: Homer
A morning fly-fishing trip landed eight year old Taylor in the river filling his waders with 39-degree water while I frantically pulled him out. At last, we drove 2.5 hours to Homer, our jumping point for BEARS in Katmai National Park.
Homer is made for nature lovers and fishermen, overlooking the Kachemak Bay and the Kenai mountains. It’s the “MECCA” of all fishing towns, known for halibut, cod, rockfish, and salmon fishing excursions. As the “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World,” the seafood is delicious.
Homer has a “spit,” a sliver of land that extends into the bay, with amazing views and fishing from shore. We explored the town, the fishing docks, and had dinner at Captain Patties Fish House.
The Salty Dawg Saloon was built in 1887 with the inside covered in money.
Lodging
We stayed at the Land’s End Resort and were thrilled with our beach view.
Homer has grown over time and increased the number of RVs allowed to camp near the water, decreasing the beauty of the spit.
I plan to stay in Halibut Cove or camp in Katmai when I return.
Day 9: Homer
Katmai National Park and Brooks Falls are the entire goal of this trip!
People travel the world to watch these iconic bears fishing at the falls. The flight over the volcano with island views is worth the money.
Having a massive bear step out of the woods directly into my path, looking into my eyes, was worth every dollar. I slowly moved off the path, but he was close enough to pet. There is nothing on the planet more terrifying or amazing than wild bears. Watching momma bears with tiny cubs trying to fish while fighting off male bears and saving the cubs from drowning was intense. The older cubs that wrestle and play bring a playful level of energy to the area. The Mamma Bears usually avoid the big males at the upper falls viewing platform and enter the river downstream.
The rangers know all the bears and share their stories. Our favorite was Big Otis, catching salmon jumping up the falls. Over 50 bears visit the falls daily during the salmon run. The strongest and fattest bears perch on the waterfall and wait patiently to grab airborne salmon, jumping the falls to travel to their spawning grounds in Brooks Lake. Bears growl warnings and fight for fishing positions. The viewing platforms are limited to an hour, so then you wait for another turn. The live bear cams allow anyone to vote in the fattest bear competition.
Brooks Falls
Our entire mid-July trip was planned around the salmon swimming upstream to draw in the bears. The cheapest option was Bald Mountain Air at $1,300/person. I know it’s ridiculous, but it’s a LIFE BUCKETLIST.
It was the best day of my life!
Before getting on the plane, the pilot will weigh you in your boots and raincoat, so don’t lie about your weight on the reservation form. Bring your rain jacket, OFF, and a portable phone charger, but no snacks are allowed. There’s no cell service in the park. If you are pressed for time and can’t make it to Homer, Anchorage offers flights to Katmai National Park.
Camping
- It’s bear territory, but an electric fence surrounds the grass for camping with a food storage area, picnic tables, fire rings, vaulted toilets, and potable water.
- Watching the bears and cubs without crowds for as long as I want is priceless.
- It’s a 2-mile walk from camp to the falls.
- With highs in the 60s and lows in the 40s, pack warm sleeping bags and waterproof rain gear.
- Reservations are limited to 6 people and seven nights in July.
- The camp has a 60-person capacity.
- The campsites open for reservation on January 5th at 8 a.m. Alaska time on recreation.gov or over the phone with all reservations booked in two hours.
Cabins
- There’s a lottery system to get one of the 16 Brook Falls rustic cabins.
- The Brook Falls Cabins are bunk bed basic four-person cabins at $1,125/night.
- The online lottery applications open in December for reservations a year and a half out. In December 2022, applicants will be approved for the 2024 summer. Entrants are contacted in January in the order their number is drawn.
- A 50% deposit is due within seven days of receiving your reservation. Three nights are the maximum stay during July or September.
- The lodge provides three meals a day, which would average to about $80/per person per day. There are no other food options.
- TIP: The more flexible you are with the dates requested, the higher your chance of receiving a reservation.
Valley of 10,000 Smokes
The Valley of 10,000 Smokes tours the largest volcanic eruption in the 20th century, only 24 miles from Brooks Lodge. The bus takes you to the valley, the guided hike is 3.4 miles around the area, and reservations are required for the 7-hour tour. The mystery of the Valley displays the raw power of nature in a unique setting. There is not time on a day trip to visit.
Fishing
Fishing at Brooks River requires a valid license, permit, line clippers because you can’t fish within 50 feet of a bear, and obeying many state regulations. Brooks Lodge offers guided sport fishing experiences. Flying to fishing destinations on Katmai is a full day for two anglers at over $500/per person.
Day 10: Homer
If my bear flight is canceled due to weather, I have a day to reschedule. Homer is the perfect place to go deep-sea fishing. It’s vacation, and I love a beach day.
Bishop’s Beach
We grabbed snacks from Two Sisters Bakery before exploring Bishop’s beach, and I could sit here ALL day. Unlock a world of relaxation filled with majestic beauty on Bishops Beach. The beach is serene, with tidepool exploring, so go at low tide and wear waterproof boots. My feet got wet playing on the rocky shore, so bring extra socks.
The Docks
Walking the piers and admiring the arrival of hundreds of fishing boats is a must.
The Center for Alaskan Coastal Studies provides hiking excursions, Bay tidepool tours, and a Creatures of the Dock Tour with massive sea stars.
Alaska Islands and Ocean Visitor Center is a free educational opportunity and an option for a rainy day.
We had terrific views at both Finn’s Pizza for lunch and dinner at The Chart Room.
Next Trip Goals:
I plan to take a water taxi to Kachemak Bay State Park and hike to Grewingk Glacier Lake. The hike is close to 6 miles from drop-off to pick-up and lasts 4-5 hours. Walking sticks and bug spray are needed.
Halibut Cove
I dream of visiting Halibut Cove by water taxi to enjoy the views of Kachemak Bay. After making ferry reservations, reserve lunch at The Saltry. Then, plan to walk around the town to find the floating post office.
Seldovia Bay Ferry makes day trips to the quaint village of Seldovia.
Day 11: Talkeetna
We begin traveling the five hours north to Talkeetna. For all my train lovers riding the train to Denali, leave your car at Anchorage Depot, and we will meet you in Talkeetna. Riding the train from Anchorage to Denali is an excellent option for kids.
Reindeer Farm
Y’all know I’m stopping in Palmer for the Reindeer Farm tour to see Rudolph! The self-guided tour costs $15 per person and allows you to feed all 40 reindeer. It was an absolute blast! You will meet other farm animals: moose, yak, bison, alpacas, and elk. Guided tours are available to enter the enclosures, and I recommend them.
Talkeetna
After feeding the reindeer, it’s time to finish the last two hours of driving to arrive at the cutest town in Alaska, Talkeetna.
Talkeetna is over 100 years old, with the original buildings lining the main street of the one-road town. It’s quaint and unique, with a Wild West meets Alaska adventure vibe. This charming town is excellent for picking up souvenirs, dinner, or staying the night. Don’t miss the Talkeetna Riverfront at the end of the main street, overlooking three rivers with stunning mountain views.
Alaska’s Best Kept Secret
The Hurricane Turn Train drives by the town, taking you through the backcountry. The train is a flag-stop service. If you want a ride, you flag down the train. I seriously think this is Alaska’s BEST KEPT SECRET. Is there anything more Alaskan than flagging down a train and adventuring into the wild? We watched people waving their flags and I wanted to ride. I planned Alaska for a year and I missed this.
Climbing Denali
Talkeetna is the starting point for Denali climbers with the Denali National Park Visitor Center. The town cemetery pays tribute to the over 140 climbers who have died climbing Denali.
Talkeetna meets all my expectations of an Alaskan town.
Lodging & Activities
- Dinner at Mountain High Pizza Pie was authentic, fresh, and delicious.
- We stayed overnight in a nice B&B Inn, but the owners were creepy, so I can’t recommend it. I should have booked Denali Fireside Cabins.
- I wish we had time for Mahay’s River Adventures, which offers four different tour options on the beautiful river.
- Several companies offer flights over Denali National Park.
Days 12 & 13: Denali
It’s a 2.5-hour drive from Talkeetna to Healy, outside Denali.
Spend the following days exploring Denali National Park, WILD Alaska, the tallest mountain in North America, with sweeping views and roaming wildlife.
“The Human Spirit needs places where nature has not been rearranged by the hand of man.”
Weather
The weather is dramatic and constantly changing, so bring rain jackets and sweatshirts. The views are tremendous, and the rain, snow, and sideways wind are all part of the Alaskan experience. The forecast NEVER CHANGES: it’s overcast with a chance of rain. Well, see, the problem is I don’t like to hike in cold, sideways rain.
Here’s the warning I completely ignored: Due to fog and clouds, only 30% of people see Denali. That’s nine days out of the month Denali is visible. I thought staying for three days would give me a better chance to see Denali and the animals, but I was mistaken. When they say the mountain makes CLOUDS, they mean serious clouds where you can’t see anything. We were fortunate to see a herd of caribou and a wolf.
“Denali, been there, didn’t see that.” JB
The first 15 miles of the park can be traveled by car, and then you ride the bus.
Buses
- YOU MUST HAVE A BUS RESERVATION.
- No food, drinks, or snacks are sold in the National Park, so pack a lunch.
- Through 2024, a rock slide is impacting the bus service, with the bus traveling to mile 43 out of 92 of Denali Park Road.
- The Visitor Center would be my point for turning around at an 8-9 hour bus ride.
- There are three types of buses: transit, narrated, and camper buses.
- The benefits of green-painted TRANSIT Buses are the ability to GET OFF, do day hikes, and wave down another green bus to continue your travels. Kids under 15 ride free and adults $35 on the Transit buses.
- The $117-$144 Narrated Bus tours provide more information, but you can only get off for the 30-minute bathroom and Visitor Center break.
- There’s a bus leaving every 30 minutes.
Inside Denali
- We caught the 12 p.m. bus into the park, stayed two nights inside the park, and then flew out.
- The flight around the park was worth every dollar.
- Fly Denali offers an amazing two-hour flight that lands on a glacier for $700.
- However, the weather was rainy, so staying inside the park was not worth over $500 a night. The trails deep in the park were “bushwacking,” which means making your way through waist-high bushes and hoping a bear doesn’t eat you. That’s too WILD for me. I’ll stay at the lodge and fight mosquitos.
- Wonder Lake is the best place to watch the sunset.
Denali Recap
- After a day on the bus, use day two to hike the trails in the park’s first 15 miles.
- The Nenana River runs through the park and offers calm floats or whitewater rafting trips through rapids ranging from Class 1 to 4.
- Denali Bluffs Hotel or the Grande Denali Lodge for lodging outside the park.
- If you are riding the train, the hotels above provide a shuttle for train pick-up and to the Visitor Center for your bus tour.
- The sled dog kennels are located three miles inside the park and are open year-round. You can visit them by car or the free shuttle.
Denali Hikes
- You drive the first 15 miles in the park.
- Mountain Vista Trail is an easy 0.6-mile loop at mile 13.
- The Savage River Loop Trail, located at mile 15, is a 2-mile loop around the Savage River. Denali isn’t visible from this trail. Parking fills up fast, but the park offers a Savage River Shuttle.
- The Savage Alpine Trail, located at Mile 15, is 4 miles long, and the 1,500-ft climb offers views of Denali.
- Bus Hikes are below.
- Located near Eielson Visitor Center, mile 66, is the moderate, 4 mile, Gorge Creek Trail with incredible views of Denali.
- McKinley Station Trail is an easy 6.4-mile round trip hike near the visitor center along Riley Creek. After hiking a mile or two, turn around.
- Horseshoe Lake Trail is an easy two-mile round trip, near the visitor center around the lake and Nenana River.
- Wonder Lake at mile 85: Even in rainy weather, the lake views are mesmerizing, and you are only 26 miles away from Denali.
Day 14: home
- We flew over Denali and drove 4.5 hours to Anchorage for our flight home.
- People always ask, “How much did the trip cost?” My budget was $15K, with bears, fishing, and flights accounting for $8K.
Alaska Road Trip Travel Guide
Whew, that’s a lot of information in the Alaska Travel Guide. Next, let’s explore alternate itineraries and planning tips.
Tips for an Alaska Road Trip
- Flights to Alaska are expensive, and the distance between towns is daunting, so stay for as long as possible, 10-14 days. Watch Skyscanner to book the best deal on direct round-trip flights for Anchorage, then rent that expensive SUV. Flight prices (over $800) often determine which year an Alaska trip is financially possible.
- Trains are for tourists, with Anchorage to Denali costing $400 a person.
- In the 2nd & 3rd weeks of July, the salmon swim upstream, and the Katmai National Park massive bears fish the waterfall. My first planning steps and the entire trip was based on the bears.
- Alaska is open for tourists from mid-June to mid-August. Due to snow and rain, the only budget deals are traveling at the end of May and the first of September.
- Hotel options are limited and basic.
- Alaska is a ROAD TRIP with hours of wilderness between each town, so have a full gas tank, car charger, snacks, and a map or a recent Google Maps download. You have left the lower 48 states, so you won’t find a Dollar General. You will see more glaciers than gas stations.
- Pack waterproof jackets, pants, and layers with Alaska’s unpredictable weather.
- You can’t enjoy Alaska if you are exhausted.
A 9-day itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Anchorage, grab supplies
Day 2: Drive to Healy (Denali) with a stop in Talkeetna
Day 3: Denali Bus Tour Day
Day 4: Drive to Anchorage, bike the Tony Knowles Trail, or visit the Alaska Zoo.
Day 5: Drive the Seward Highway to Seward
Day 6: Seward to boat Kenai Fjords National Park
Day 7: Drive to Cooper Landing to fish, then to Anchorage.
Day 8: Flight from Anchorage to Katami National Park for bears
Day 9: Fly home
For a 10-day Itinerary, add an extra day in Seward for sled dogs & hiking.
Planning steps
- I started booking a year out, but six months is the latest to start.
- For the Katmai National Park Bears, your vacation starts in MID-July.
- Decide the length of your trip and select an above itinerary.
- Compare your bucket list activities with your budget.
- Make hotel reservations that can be canceled.
- Book flights to Katmai for Bears or Denali flights.
- Reserve fishing trips
- Start watching flights and rental car prices at 3-5 months out.
- Buy Denali bus tickets
- Kenai Fjords boat cruise tickets
- Train tickets
- Pack your waterproof shoes, layers, and a coat
Thanks for joining me in the Alaska Road Trip Travel Guide. Chase your dreams and take that trip. If this isn’t the year for Alaska, I’ve included a few cheaper road trips.
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